Monday, January 16, 2012

Elmina and Kakum

We woke up early on Sunday (5 a.m!) and began the trip to the west towards Cape Coast and Kakum National Forest.  Here is a map that will show you where we were headed!  Cape Coast was originally the capital of Gold Coast before independence from the British in 1957.  The capital moved to Accra in 1962 and the country's name was changed to Ghana to honor the ancient Ghana Empire.

On our way to the Cape Coast, I immediately noticed that it was much more lush and there was more tropical vegetation.  We finally hit the coast to the west and headed in toward the city of Cape Coast.  On our way, our host, Godwin, took us to see his alma mater, University of Cape Coast.  One of the buildings had this cool mural on it.

Dr. Spencer gets in the mix!
In this area, boats will go out to sea and drop nets.  Then groups of fishermen will bring in the nets by pulling on the ropes.  When we hit the coastline, we saw these fishermen doing exactly this!  The coastline is truly beautiful.  For some reason, I really felt that I was at the end of land, with expanses of ocean spreading out in front of me.  While I know that the beach in La Jolla is the same, the beach is very narrow.  This gives the feeling you are teetering on the edge of humanity.  I realize that sounds a little strange, but I had that sense all along the Cape Coast area.

We headed to the Cape Coast Castle.  On our way, we passed the town of Cape Coast.  This area is a bustling fishing village. 

This brings me to a fascinating, but also very difficult part of our day--visiting the Cape Coast Castle. The Cape Coast Castle was a British fort that overlooked the ocean.  It was the distribution center for goods that would be traded with Britain and the Americas.  This, of course, included slaves.  It was incredibly disturbing to walk down into the slave dungeons and see where thousands of humans were imprisoned and treated like livestock.  While I know that the slave trade was a horrific and terrible atrocity, there is something about seeing the evidence of it in full view that really hits home how barbaric the practices were.  Having also spent a semester thinking about educational equity in the United States and now spending time here in Ghana exploring the same issues, it is clear that many, many of the problems that still exist today are the result of this inhumane treatment of humans. 

The "door of no return" -- entrance to the slave ships




The visit was sobering, but also provided some absolutely stunning views of the Cape Coast city.  I especially enjoyed viewing the fishing boats washed up on shore and the football players playing on the beach.  





We left the Cape Coast shortly thereafter, heading towards Kakum National Forest.  This rainforest has seven rope bridges that allow you to walk through the canopy layer of rainforest.  It is pretty spectacular.  Before we got to Kakum, though, we stopped for lunch at a little hotel/restaurant.  My dining companion (see below) was a mere 5 feet away from us and separated by a low wall.  We were assured he was friendly!

Finally we made it to Kakum!  Here are some photos from our canopy walk.  I was surprisingly brave and zen about the heights.  In fact, the only moment I was panicked, was at the end when I saw the somewhat questionable method of securing the ropes from the bridge.  Good thing that was after I had survived!




We headed back to our hotel after Kakum for a swim in the 80 degree ocean and a walk on the beach.  Elmina Bay was so peaceful--no phones, no internet...just the sound of the ocean waves breaking on the shore.  A great dinner followed by African drumming and dancing (I danced.  There is no photographic evidence to my great relief).   This was a whirlwind tourist day, but it was such a great way to explore Southern Ghana!
The beach at Elmina Bay

1 comment:

  1. HI Jennifer,
    I absolutely love your blog. It brings up such fond memories. You captured well our work and time in Ghana. Thanks so much!
    Dr. Spencer

    ReplyDelete